How to stop erosion on a slope before the winter rains: a Sonoma County guide
In Santa Rosa, 99.5% of the 2024 to 2025 water year's rain fell from October to April. Before the storms, cover bare soil with 2 inches of straw or wood chips, lay wattles on the contour, and protect downspouts. Find your slope with the calculator below.
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An independent guide. Not a government agency. For permits, call Permit Sonoma or your city.
The rains are coming, and bare ground on a slope is the first thing they take.
You know the spot. The patch where nothing grew this summer. The corner where the downspout dumps.
Most of the fix is low-tech. Start by finding how steep your slope is.
The short answer
- Cover bare soil. Straw or wood chip mulch takes the hit from raindrops.[1][2] Keep wood mulch 5 feet from the house.[3]
- Break up the slope. Rows of fiber rolls (wattles) on the contour slow water down.[4]
- Tame the downspouts. Every outlet that drains onto soil needs some protection.[1]
- Plant for the long run. Roots hold soil once they are in.[1]
- Get help on steep ground. Slopes over 50% may need a licensed professional.[1]
Why now
- A strong El Niño is likely. On Oct 8, NOAA said a strong to very strong El Niño is likely through January to March 2027, at better than an 83% chance.[5] NOAA also says the usual El Niño effects are not guaranteed.[5] Our guide to El Niño and Sonoma County water covers what past ones did here.
- The rainy season has started. For permitted construction and grading in unincorporated Sonoma County, Permit Sonoma's rainy season runs October 1 to April 30. Erosion controls have to be working the whole time.[6] Cities set their own rules. A garden is not a grading site, but the calendar is a good one to borrow.
- Nearly all the rain falls in that window. In Santa Rosa, 39.1 of the 39.3 inches of the 2024 to 2025 water year fell between October and April. That is 99.5%, by our count from NOAA's monthly totals.[7] One year is one year. See how much rain Sonoma County gets for the averages.
How erosion starts
- It starts with a raindrop. Drops hitting bare soil can splash it as high as 3 feet and as far as 5 feet.[8] Soil under a stone or a bit of plant debris stays put.[8]
- Then the water moves. If water is flowing across bare soil anywhere on your property, at least some soil is going with it.[1]
- Then it digs. Watch for uneven ground and shallow dips. Those grow into small gullies.[1]
- Bare and sloped is the worst combination. Sonoma RCD calls bare soil and slopes the parts of any landscape most vulnerable to runoff.[1]
A sense of scale: one inch of rain on 1,000 square feet of slope is about 623 gallons. A 2 inch storm is about 1,250 gallons, all looking for the easiest way down.
First, measure your slope
Slope in percent is rise over run, times 100.
Our method: lay a straight 4 foot board on the slope, pointing downhill. Put a level on it and lift the downhill end until it reads level. Measure the gap under that end in inches. Enter both numbers in the calculator at the top.
A 16 inch gap under a 48 inch board is 33%. Engineers write that as 3:1, three across for one down.
Step 1: Cover bare soil
Mulch is the first move. It protects soil from the direct hit of rain and slows runoff across the surface.[1] UC Cooperative Extension calls mulching the most effective post-fire technique on hillsides, and straw mulch low-cost.[2]
- How much cover. UC Cooperative Extension cites 60 to 70% ground cover as ideal for limiting erosion.[2] NRCS says about 30% of the ground should still show through straw that is spread right.[9]
- How thick. NRCS spreads straw about 2 inches deep on gentle to moderate slopes.[9] Deeper than 2 to 3 inches can slow the return of plants from seed already in the soil.[10]
- Which straw. Use certified weed-free straw. Rice straw breaks down faster than wheat or barley and costs less.[11] Even "weed free" straw is not always free of weeds, the California Native Plant Society warns.[10]
- Wood chips. Pieces longer than 2 inches and under 1 inch across work best.[2] Small bark or chips that will not wash away also work on moderate slopes.[12]
- Keep it off the house. The Sonoma Master Gardeners advise no wood mulch within 5 feet of the home, for fire.[3] Sonoma RCD says keep organic mulch at least 6 inches from siding.[1] That first 5 feet is also California's Zone 0. See Zone Zero Guidelines.
- Steep or windy spots. Tuck the straw into the soil, or cover it with netting.[11][10]
How much straw? NRCS figures one 75 pound bale covers about 800 square feet.[9] Permit Sonoma's hydroseeding spec, 4,000 pounds of straw an acre, works out to almost the same: about 92 pounds per 1,000 square feet.[6]
| Bare area | 75 lb bales |
|---|---|
| 200 sq ft | 1 (you will have extra) |
| 500 sq ft | 1 |
| 1,000 sq ft | 2 |
| 2,000 sq ft | 3 |
| 5,000 sq ft | 7 |
Our calculation: area divided by 800 square feet per bale, rounded up. Bales vary in weight, so check the tag.
Step 2: Break up the slope with wattles
Fiber rolls, often called straw wattles, are tubes of straw or other fiber, roughly 9 inches thick and up to 25 feet long.[2] Laid across a slope, they shorten it, slow the water and catch soil.[4]
- On the contour. Lay each roll level across the slope, not pointing downhill. Napa County calls this critical.[13]
- Dig them in. Set each roll in a shallow trench, a quarter to a third of its thickness deep. Start at the bottom of the slope and work up.[13]
- Stake them. Napa's guidance uses wood stakes at each end and no more than 4 feet apart.[13]
- Hook the ends. Turn each end uphill in a J so water cannot run around it.[13]
- Know the limits. UC says rolls suit slopes below 40%.[2] CNPS says they are for short slopes or slopes flatter than 3:1, and that badly installed rolls can make things worse.[10] Caltrans adds that they do not fix an unstable slope.[4]
- They can fail. UC says barriers like these are likely to fail in short, very intense storms, can channel water if installed wrong, and are used less now that mulching has improved.[2] Mulch first, then rolls.
How far apart? The guidelines do not agree, which is worth knowing before you buy.
Caltrans and Napa County use 20 feet on slopes flatter than 4:1.[4][13]
Both use 15 feet between 4:1 and 2:1, and 10 feet on anything steeper.[4][13]
The CNPS rule of thumb, 1,000 divided by the slope percent, spaces rows much farther apart.[10]
Caltrans writes for construction sites. CNPS writes for burned wildland. Napa notes that closer spacing is more effective.[13]
Our worked example. A bare bank 20 feet wide and 30 feet long at 25% is 600 square feet. That is one bale of straw. Caltrans also puts rolls at the top and toe of a slope.[4] At its 15 foot spacing, that is three rows.
Watch the netting. Plastic netting on rolls and blankets can trap snakes, lizards, frogs, birds and small mammals, sometimes for years after plants grow through it.[14] The Coastal Commission recommends plastic-free netting of jute, sisal or coir, with a loose weave whose joints can move. It counts "degradable" plastic as plastic.[14] Rolls with plastic netting should come out once the slope is stable.[13][10]
Step 3: Tame the downspouts
A downspout turns a whole roof into one fast stream. On bare soil, that is a gully waiting to happen.
- Protect every outlet. Sonoma RCD says any outlet that drains onto soil or another erodible surface needs some kind of outlet protection.[1]
- Splash guards and rock. A splash guard takes the first force out of the water. A pad of rock at the outlet slows it further.[1]
- Spread the load. An extra downspout cuts the volume and speed of water at any one point. The guide suggests downspouts about 20 to 50 feet apart.[1]
- Slope away from the house. Ground under the roof edge should fall at least 5% away from the foundation for at least 10 feet.[1]
Better still, catch some of it. See whether rain barrels are legal in California and how to slow it, spread it and sink it. Not sure whether to keep the water or send it away? Read sink it or shed it.
Step 4: Plant for the long run
Mulch and wattles buy time. Plants are the long-term fix. Their roots knit together and hold soil in place.[1]
- Mix it up. Plants with deep, spreading roots work best, ideally a mix of ground covers, perennials, shrubs and trees.[12]
- Natives that hold hills. The Marin Master Gardeners name California buckwheat, manzanita, coffeeberry, ceanothus and coyote brush.[12] Our list of drought tolerant plants for Sonoma County has more.
- Skip these. Some ivies and ice plant can weaken slopes.[1]
- Until they fill in, keep the mulch and wattles. On slopes of 33% to 50%, the Marin guide pairs planting with jute netting and wattles until plants take hold.[12]
Seed or no seed?
Scattering grass seed sounds like the obvious answer. The experts split, and for different reasons.
| The case for | The case against |
|---|---|
| Quick cover on bare, freshly graded soil.[6] | Usually not cost-effective after wildfire, CNPS says research agrees.[10] |
| UC calls seeding alone largely ineffective, but says pairing it with mulch may make it work better.[2] | Seed-mix grasses tend to be short-lived, shallow rooted and flammable by next summer.[10] |
| Permit Sonoma's spec lists a mix for permitted slopes.[6] | Does not work on slopes over 35%, and unseeded ground often regrows as well.[10] |
The case for, in detail. For permitted grading, Permit Sonoma's notes call for temporary revegetation before October 1. They give a hydroseed mix of blando brome and rose clover, with fertilizer and straw mulch.[6]
The case against, in detail. In one Forest Service study CNPS cites, plots seeded with Italian ryegrass grew more invasive mustard.[10] CNPS does not rule out all seeding. If you do seed, it says, use locally sourced native perennial plants.[10]
Our take. These are two different situations. A freshly graded building pad is not a burned oak hillside. On a home slope, we would mulch first and plant natives for keeps. If you are under a permit, follow the permit.
Steep slopes and warning signs
- Over 50%. Slopes that steep are especially vulnerable and may need a licensed professional.[1]
- Walls. Sonoma RCD's 2015 guide says retaining walls over 3 feet high must be engineered.[1] Check with Permit Sonoma or your city building department.
- Moving the dirt. Regrading can need a permit. In unincorporated areas that is Permit Sonoma; in a city, ask your city. See when you need a county permit to change drainage.
- Slide signs. Watch for unusual movement of water, land or debris during or after rain. Have a plan and leave if it becomes unsafe.[11]
- Talk to the neighbors. Runoff does not stop at the property line.[11]
Where the soil goes
Everything outside drains to creeks, the county reminds owners. On burned lots, it asks them not to use hoses or leaf blowers to clear ash and debris.[11] See only rain down the storm drain.
In creeks, mud is a fish problem. Writing about the Gualala River, the North Coast Water Board says elevated sediment levels impair spawning habitat, reduce oxygen exchange and alter stream structure.[15] Our story on fine sediment and salmon eggs goes deeper.
Our view: soil that stays on your slope keeps growing plants, and it never becomes mud in the creek. That is a good trade for a few bales of straw.
Who can help
- Your resource conservation district. Sonoma RCD calls erosion control help one of its longest-standing and most requested services.[16] The county lists it at (707) 569-1448.[11] West county, roughly from Sebastopol and Occidental to Bodega Bay and Monte Rio, is served by Gold Ridge RCD instead.[17] Ask which one covers you.
- Sonoma Ecology Center. The county's 2020 Glass Fire recovery page lists it for help with erosion control measures and wattles, (707) 996-0712.[11]
- Sonoma County Storm Water and Creeks team. The same page lists it for construction and rebuild sites, (707) 565-6186.[11]
- More. Our directory and who to call about water.
What it means for you
Our view:
- Walk your slope this week. Find the bare spots and the downspouts.
- Cover bare soil with about 2 inches of weed-free straw or chunky wood chips, kept 5 feet from the house.
- To break up a slope under 40%, add plastic-free wattles on the contour.
- Plant natives this season. Call a pro for anything over 50% or anything moving.
Next: decide where the water that runs off should go with sink it or shed it, then read swales: what they do and when not to build one.
Sources
- 1. Sonoma RCD and RCD of Santa Cruz County, Slow it. Spread it. Sink it. Store it!, 2nd edition (June 2015)
- 2. Deak, Post-Fire Erosion Control: Mitigating Hillslope Erosion Following a Wildfire, UC Cooperative Extension (Oct 2023)
- 3. UC Master Gardeners of Sonoma County, Types of mulch
- 4. Caltrans, LAP Erosion Control Toolbox, Fiber Rolls (updated Feb 5, 2019)
- 5. NOAA Climate Prediction Center, ENSO Diagnostic Discussion, Oct 8, 2026
- 6. Permit Sonoma, GRD-011 Erosion Prevention and Sediment Control Notes (Dec 16, 2020)
- 7. NOAA California-Nevada River Forecast Center, Monthly Precipitation Summary, Water Year 2025
- 8. Warren, Useful Trouble, Oklahoma State University Extension PSS-2252
- 9. USDA NRCS, Temporary Erosion Control Following Wild Fire: Straw Mulching (City of Ventura copy)
- 10. California Native Plant Society, Fire Recovery Guide (NRCS copy)
- 11. Sonoma County Emergency Management, How to prepare burned properties for rain after the Glass Fire
- 12. UC Marin Master Gardeners, Preventing Erosion (Nelson, 2018)
- 13. Napa County, Fiber Rolls
- 14. California Coastal Commission, Wildlife-Friendly Plastic-Free Netting in Erosion and Sediment Control Products (rev. Sept 2016)
- 15. North Coast Regional Water Board, Gualala River Sediment TMDL (updated Apr 21, 2026)
- 16. Sonoma Resource Conservation District, Assisting Residents
- 17. Sonoma County 2021 Multi-Jurisdictional Hazard Mitigation Plan, Volume 2, Gold Ridge Resource Conservation District Annex
Checked 2026-10-17. Rules and programs change. If something here is out of date, the source above wins. Spot an error? See our corrections policy.